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Michelangela 7c

Yesterday, 9 august, I finally managed to send my current project - Michelangela, graded at 7c.

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It was a nice route, with consistent climbing, and without a specific crux. The route is in general vertical, with some slightly slabs or overhanging parts. There were 3 parts which were somewhat harder: two on the lower part and one in the upper part. On the first one I spend the most time trying to figure out how to do it, but this may also be because I was working solo on the route. The first beta I figured out for the move was jumping to an undercling, while having a not-very-good right foot hold, and the left one was in the air. But over the time I also figured out a more static beta, which I used in the final run. The second crux had two long moves, one towards a two finger crimp, and the other, with the left hand towards a good hold over a ledge. The third crux was about finding a foothold for reaching a side-hold dynamically. It took me 6 trips to Plattenwald to work on the route and send it, as follows:

Day 1 - Sunday, 17/07/2022, solo

  • I was dolo roping the whole afternoon on this route.
  • I managed to do the first moves (first crux) and to try something in the second one. 

Day 2 - Sunday 24/07/2022, with Valeriu

  • I managed to figure out the second hard part.
  • only 2 or 3 tries on the lower part, without working too much on this route in that day

Day 3 - tuesday, 26/07/2022, with Stefan

  • I tried to redpoint the lower part, but I fell at the second crux
  • tried the exit of the lower part and the beginning of the upper one
  • overall, didn't spent much time on the route

Day 4 - tuesday, 02/08/2022, with Andreea

  • I tried the upper part and realized that there is also a harder move there - figured out some moves, but didn't knew how to pass through the whole section

Day 5 - Sunday, 07/08/2022, with Andreea

  • I top-roped the route 2 times, but using some right hold which probably is a bit too far from the route, on the right sife of the crack
  • I figured out a beta which does not use the right side of the crack, but did not try to link it afterwards

Day 6 - Tuesday, 09/08/2022, with Andreea & Stefan

  • Redpointed it on the first try of the day :)